This is the most frequently asked question, also the hardest one to answer. It's because orchids are very diverse group of plants, they can be found from the tropical jungle in Amazon to the temperate zone in Alaska. The short answer to the question is yes if you provide them with the right conditions and pick the right orchids.

As the grower you should find out where you can grow orchids. For example, do you have windows with southern, eastern, or western exposure? What are the light conditions in the kitchen, master bedroom, etc.? What is the temperature variation? Generally, orchids prefer a bright spot with indirect sunlight and temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees. Typically a window with a northern exposure may not provide enough light for orchids, especially in the winter. Temperature-wise, orchids should be sheltered from cold weather in winter, and from the occasional hot days in summer.

Some orchids are more adaptable and therefore easier to grow. Orchids such as Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Paphiopedilum (slipper orchid), and Oncidium (dancing-lady orchid) are great candidates. However, it also depends on what kind of environment you can provide them. For example, slipper orchids usually prefer lower light and higher humidity, and hence it may be content sitting on the coffee table a few feet away from a window or French door covered with a sheer curtain. On the other hand, moth orchids prefer medium light, and thus it may thrive on the kitchen counter next to a window.

In any case, we typically recommend that people buy healthy plants or better yet, mature ones. Orchids on the discount bench can be very tempting. However, it can be hard to nurse them back to health and the result can be disappointing. Growing mature plants gives you a better chance of getting orchids to bloom within a reasonable time frame and thus more be rewarding. After you have been successful with mature plants you can branch out to seedlings and other more challenging genera. Moreover, buying from reputable vendors further ensure the health and quality of orchids.

In general, orchids bloom once a year. However, some orchids, such as Oncidium, Dendrobium, and some Paphiopedilum can bloom twice a year. Phalaenopsis have a reputation for re-blooming on the same flower stem or spike and thus extending their flowering period. In addition, some orchids are sequential bloomers, such as Phragmipedium, Psychopsis, and some Paphiopedilum species/hybrids. The best way to find out how often an orchid blooms is to ask a knowledgeable seller.

This is the most difficult question to answer. Everyone's growing environment is different in some way which effects the speed at which the orchid will dry out. As a general rule of thumb, water your orchid once every 10 days in winter and spring, and once a week in summer and fall. This is only an idea, not a schedule! It totally depends on the requirement of your orchid.

A Paphiopedilum doesn't like to dry out, while Dendrobiums and Cattleyas enjoy a slight drying out between watering. Keep the growing medium moist but never wet. Constant wetness will cause root rot and eventually the death of the plant. Far more plants suffer from over-watering than under-watering. Observation is the most important key to becoming a good orchid grower.

'Weekly weakly' is a good tip for growers. It is beneficial to fertilize your orchids every time you water. Orchids are not heavy feeders and half strength of the recommended concentration should be sufficient. We recommend that people fertilize orchids whenever they water. We do this at our greenhouses and find it to work very well. All fertilizers contain three main ingredients, which are nitrogen, potassium, and phosphate. Their portions are indicated by three numbers, such as 10-20-10 (10% nitrogen, 20% potassium, 10% phosphate, and 60% others). A balanced fertilizer (i.e. 20-20-20) is recommended since it is easy to apply without any complication. Plus you can use it all the time with out having to remember to switch to a different kind of fertilizer.

For a mature orchid, it only needs to be re-potted every two years or so, before the growing medium deteriorates or before the plant outgrows the container. For a seedling, it needs to be re-potted every year to make sure the growing medium is fresh, and the roots are healthy. Healthy roots promote happy plants; happy plants produce abundant flowers.

This is a mixed bag. Consumers usually leave the spike alone because Phalaenopsis tends to re-bloom from the same spike. However, the spike should be cut off if it turns yellow or the plant shows signs of stress (not growing, wrinkled leaves, shriveled roots, etc.). The re-blooming flowers usually are not as showy as the first bloom. For a young plant especially, it may be beneficial to cut of the spike and reserve the energy for growing in order to produce more and better quality flowers the next season. We cut all our Phal spikes down to the plant to rest the plant and give it a chance to send up a new spike which will be better than the last. Cutting the spike tends to promote a good growing cycle which produces a healthier plant.

It is not necessarily bad to have black spots. They may be healing marks from a previous infection or physical damage. Some orchids may produce so called "sun spots" when they are over-exposed. In these cases, the spots are unaesthetic to look at but are not a detriment to the plant. If there is sign of spreading or becoming watery, it can be a fungus or bacteria infection. The area should be cut off.

When your orchid doesn't bloom, it may suggest that certain growing criteria are not met. That is why it is important to find out what kinds of orchids are suitable for your growing environment. Is the plant healthy? Is the leaf too yellow or too dark green (over- or under-exposure to light)? Are you fertilizing? Does the orchid need to experience a temperature drop at night to initiate a flower spike? Some more challenging plants may require a cold or dry treatment (dormancy) to encourage spiking? These are some of the questions that you as the grower need to answer and then you can adjust your culture and growing conditions.

In some cases, if you feel that you have done all the right things for your orchid yet it fails to perform, then our suggestion is to move it to a different spot in your house for a month or two and see how it reacts. Most often a brighter window makes all the difference. You would be amazed how some orchids respond to a new spot with lots of new growths and lots of blooms.

The shade of green on the leaf is the best indicator of light exposure. The desired color is medium green. If the leaves turn yellowish, the orchid may be over-exposed; if the leaves are a very dark green, it is probably not getting enough light. Never expose your orchids to direct sunlight. They can be burned within 30 minutes. Use sheer curtains or blinds to soften the light. It is best to place orchids aside from windows or doors so that they can enjoy bright indirect sunlight.

Growers with limited space or windows can experiment with florescent grow lights. You can convert a dark corner of your home into a living garden. Orchids are ideal for growing indoors under lights.

This is a constant battle between growers and pests. The most common ones are mealy bugs (slow-moving, round white fluffy bugs) and scale (immobile, brown colored bugs with hard or soft shells that look like bumps). As your orchid collection increases, so does the chance of infestation.

The first defense is to inspect orchids before you bring them home. Check leaves above, underneath, and any hidden places to see if there is any sign of bugs. Routinely examine your orchids to catch any bugs before they spread. If you find an infested plant, quarantine it to prevent contamination.

If you find any insects you can remove them physically. Use a cotton swap or soft paintbrush to carefully remove any mealy bugs or scale. Then apply the infected area with 70% or lower rubbing alcohol to kill any babies or eggs. Check every week and repeat the treatment if necessary.

You can also use a commercially available spray. There are some natural organic or inorganic sprays (such as chrysanthemum extract and mineral oil) you can try that work well. Follow all the directions on the products you use.

The flashy white roots often seen on top of the growing medium are a good sign of a healthy orchid. They are very important part of the plant, serving as anchors and nutrient/water carriers. So don't cut them off!

Because orchids are epiphytes (growing on trees), their roots need to breathe. That is why the growing media is always porous and loose. Sometimes orchids may send a few roots out of the pot just to 'get some air'. However, if there are too many sticking out of the pot, it may be the pot is too small or the growing media is not suitable. If this is the case, the orchid could need to be re-potted.